RETREAT

TO

LEE ABBEY

by ali hull

Buried deep in the heart of Devon is Lee Abbey, a conference, retreat and holiday centre, with its own little beach and 280 acres of beautiful grounds. But what makes it special is not just the setting - though that is stunning - but the fact that Lee Abbey is not a commercial venture; it is a community of Christians, living together, who invite others to come and join their life for a few days.

So, needing some peace and quiet, my husband and I drove down to Lee Abbey. It's easily accessible from the M5 motorway, or you can take a train to Barnstaple station. Driving in from the east, you have to go through the superb Valley of the Rocks - one of Devon's most beautiful sights and so convenient for the Abbey, that you can easily walk there in the evening to watch the sunset.

The first thing that strikes a new visitor to Lee Abbey has to be that it is a comfortable place. Forget the hair-shirt image that still hangs around some conference centres. Think warm rooms, comfortable chairs, wonderful views, a lounge overlooking the sea, an extremely well-stocked library, a games room, a chapel, and plenty of homely food. It is also a peaceful place, which makes it a popular destination for those seeking retreats - though don't try that in the summer family holiday weeks! If you want someone to pray with, they are there. If you don't, no one will impose. You can join in the programme or do your own thing.

We decided on a bit of culture, and to get out the most of our National Trust membership. Both Knightshayes Court and Arlington Court are NT properties, and both have wonderful gardens and great teashops. Arlington Court also has an excellent collection of carriages, which we admired, while feeling relieved that life - and transport - has moved on a bit since then. The house is a must if you like model boats - there are masses of them, huge ones and tiny ones, intricately and lovingly made. Knightshayes has a fascinating walled garden, as well as a huge pond with fish and floating lilies.

One of my passions is butterflies, and nearby Combe Martin has a dinosaur and wildlife park that also boasts a butterfly house. This - though extremely hot - is wonderful. Huge tropical butterflies flutter past your face - you're not separated from them by glass - and it is magical. We did wander past the dinosaur park - yes, huge models of dinosaurs, in little enclosures. Great if you're ten or under. Slightly surreal if you're not! There are also a lot of wild animals to enjoy, but don't go on a hot day - all you will see is sleeping shapes, if you're lucky. Go for the butterflies.

Down the road into Combe Martin itself is a museum you must not miss. Called The Wonder Years, it is made up of only three small rooms, but into those rooms is stuffed enough nostalgia to keep you going for days. It is a toy museum, and has toys dating back to the 1940s and earlier, though most are from the 1960s onwards. Remember the early Lego? Want to play on the Pong games? There is a quiz for adults and another one for children, and it is fascinating.

The final bit of culture I indulged in was Torrington 1646. It is forty miles away from Lee Abbey, but well worth the trip. A team of history addicts recreate the last decisive battle in 1646, which took place in the town - or scenes from it, since this is not a huge battle reconstruction. But it is absolutely fascinating - there is a demonstration of the clothes of the time, how they were put on: a trip round a herb garden, what all the plants were used for, and a weapons display - it really brings history to life.

But what if you don't want any culture and just want to laze? You can laze at Lee Abbey. You don't even need to leave the place - there are lunches provided every day, and even if it the staff's day off, when only a packed lunch is available, you can still hang around and relax. There is a constantly changing programmes of things on in the afternoons- while we were there, I had my colours done. Great in that it was free - expensive in that I discovered I had been wearing the wrong colours for the last ten years. You can't win 'em all!

Or you can go on a guided walk, do some pottery, visit the art room, be inspired by the creative director, try your hand at some archery - it all depends. You can wander around the estate or wander off it and visit Lynton or Lynmouth. Or both - and use the railway that clings to the cliff. Not for those suffering from vertigo! Try the Rock House in Lynmouth - this should strengthen you enough to walk back up the hill - or walk down and go back up by railway.

Slightly further afield is Watersmeet, which we loved. It is a wooded valley with a cafe in the middle - again, run by the National Trust, so you can be sure the menu will be varied and interesting. You can wander by the river or clamber up the paths, or just lie in the sun in the garden. Apart from the river, this is a very peaceful place.

What else must you do in Devon? Have a cream tea. It's mandatory - or should be. And Lee Abbey runs their own little tea garden, though it is not open all the year round. When it is open, you should go there. Perfect scones and huge amounts of cream. And when you feel guilty after eating it, you can stagger back up the hill to the Abbey and console yourself that you have burnt off all the calories. There are plenty of walks leaving the Abbey and striking out west, and if you manage to make it to Hunter's Inn, this is a great pub with a good menu. If you're looking for rank commercialism, Minehead is your best bet. But equally it has some pretty bits. Selworthy and Porlock weir - and Porlock itself: all are worth a visit. And finally - where better to wander than Exmoor, right on the doorstep?

We'll be back.